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Lifestyles · Travel

A paradise of bioarchitecture before its time: Isola Bella in Taormina

Isola Bella in Taormina: this is the stuff of novels, as fascinating and evocative as the family saga of the Lions of Sicily, the Florio family of the famous Marsala wine, which has captivated Italian readers in recent years and is about to become a film.


Here, however, we are not among the noble villas of Palermo and the Liberty-style residences of Mondello, but in another corner of Sicily, certainly no less striking. That is, on the coast of beautiful Taormina: on that marvellous small promontory that extends above the Ionian Sea like a natural sculpture of greenery and rock, called Isola Bella.


A must for all tourists, Italian and foreign, who crowd the pearl of the Sicilian riviera, Isola Bella is generally the destination of a rather cursory and hurried visit: visitors climb the winding little path of stone steps to enjoy the magnificent view between sky and sea from one of its terraces, and then hurry back down to the little beach in the bay, before most of the tourists fill its precious free space.

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The history and layout of this architectural and natural jewel, unique in the world, are instead well worth telling, for the extraordinary modernity of its conception.
Given in 1806 by Ferdinand I of Bourbon to the mayor of Taormina, Pancrazio Ciprioti, the islet was bought in 1890 by the English noblewoman Florence Trevelyan: she was the first to build a small house there and to plant a number of valuable non-native species among the soil and rocks.

Passed on through inheritance to the lawyer Cesare Acrosso, nephew of Florence Trevelyan’s husband, in 1938 it was bought for 38,000 lire by the brothers Leone and Emilio Bosurgi from Messina, owners of Sanderson, the largest Sicilian citrus-processing company.

The work that the Bosurgi brothers promoted on the island, the so-called Villa Bosurgi, is to be considered one of the first examples of bioarchitecture before its time in the last century. Visitors who set foot there soon realise they are faced with something extraordinary, and not only because of the period in which it was conceived and built. Secret stone doors perfectly camouflaged in the rock; hidden paths in the greenery of the rarest tree species; seats set into the profile of the island and suspended above the blue of the sea; windows with yellow cathedral glass to filter the gold of the sunlight…


And then the complex’s swimming pools. One, which the owners filled with salt water by means of a system of hydraulic pumps; the other, the so-called “covered pool”, large and fitted with a spectacular big window onto the sea, now used as a space for cultural events.

As in any self-respecting summer residence, there is a “barbecue area”, but designed according to a principle that anticipates the methods of bioarchitecture: a circular space, with windows almost “embroidered” into the rock, like natural paintings opening onto the bay.

Suspended between a vaguely “Zen” atmosphere and a bizarre modernist and ecological streak, Isola Bella, as the Bosurgi brothers wanted it and then abandoned with the inevitable decline of the citrus dynasty, has finally been restored, at least in part, thanks to a first tranche of works self-financed by the Parco Archeologico Naxos Taormina, and is now open to the public. Truly a stop not to be missed.

bioarchitectureTaormina

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